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Island Peak Climbing Nepal – 15 Days

Trip Title: Island Peak Climbing Nepal – 15 Days

Trip Length: 15 Days

Trip Grade: B       [Grading Overview]

Country: Nepal

Area: Everest

National Park: Sagarmatha       [Parks Overview]

Activity: Mountaineering

Activity Grade: 5+       [Grading Overview]

Special Focus: Island Peak Climbing

Months: March, April, May, June, July, August, September, October, November, December,

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Island Peak trekking and climbing takes you into the heart of the Khumbu, Gokyo (4,750m/15,584ft) and Everest Base Camp (5,357m/17,575ft). An ascent of Gokyo Ri (5357m/19,216ft) and Kala Pattar (5,545m/18,192ft), is good acclimatization and gives you magnificent close-up views of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu and more. You will cross the little use Chola pass (5,420m/17,782ft) and Kongma La Pass (5,535m/18,159ft); ascend one of the popular peak of the Everest region.The name Island Peak was given to the mountain in 1952 by Eric Shiptons party who were on their way to explore the Barun Gorge. Seen from above Dingboche the mountain does indeed resemble an island in a sea of ice. In 1983 it was renamed Imja Tse, although for most people the descriptive name of Island Peak seems to have been retained.The mountain was first dimbed in 1953 by a very prestigious team in preparation for the ascent of Everest. They were Charles Evans, Alf Gregory, Charles Wylie and Tenzing Norgay, with seven Sherpas who were trying out new fangled oxygen sets in preperation for Everest – these days it is never climbed with bottled oxygen!Seen from the moraines between Pheriche and Dingboche the mountain doesnt look too impressive, dwarfed as it is by one of the largest mountain faces in the world; the South Face of Lhotse; however, on close inspection it reveals itself to be an interesting and attractive summit with a highly glaciated West Face rising from the Lhotse Glacier. The mountain itself is really an extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar and is separated from it by a small col. Above this gap, rising to the south, is a classically beautiful ridge leading to the summit of lmja Tse. The continuation of this ridge, descending south-west, provides part of the normal route of ascent and leads in turn to the South Summit, seen capping the rocky west facet of the mountain when viewed from near Chhukhung.As well as providing an enjoyable climb the peak also provides some of the most striking scenery in the Khumbu. If the peak can be likened to an island in a glacial sea, then the mainland forms a semicircle of cliffs that rise in the north to the rugged summits of Nuptse (7.879m) Lhotse (8.501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8.410m), as yet still unclimbed and Lhotse Shar (8.383m). To the east, rising above the frozen waves of the Lhotse Shar Glacier, is Cho Polu (6.734m) beyond which can be seen the red granite mass of Makalu (8,475m).To the south of the Imja Glacier the icy flutings of Baruntse (7.720m) and the Amphu peaks lead the eye to the lofty pinnacle of Ama Dablam (6.856m). Island Peak Climbing Nepal – 15 Days


Remember if you have a group of 2 or more we can arrange this trip for you on your prefered date during any of the available months listed.

Day 01
Fly Kathmandu-Lukla and Trek to Phakding:

35 mins flight; 3-4 hours trek
Early morning flight by small twin otter to Lukla (2,800m/9,186ft). After final preparations, the trekking starts passing Chaurikharka village, and makes a descent towards the Dudhkosi Ghat (2,530m/8,300ft). The trail follows the banks of the Dudh Khosi River until the camp at Phakding (2,652m/8,700ft) is reached. This first day is short for acclimatization reasons.

Day 02
Phakding-Namche Bazaar: 5-6 hours.

The trail crosses the Dudh Khoshi River via a long suspension bridge and the trail then leads us to Hilarys Suspension Bridge. We climb steeply from here to Namche Bazaar. Overnight in Namche Bazaar (3,440m/11,286ft).

Day 03
Namche Bazaar: rest (Acclimatization).

This is the first of the two crucial acclimatization days. You can spend the day hiking to Thame, or visiting Khunde or by relaxing and exploring Namche Bazaar; the main centre in the Sherpa Khumbu region which has shops, restaurants, a bakery, hotels with hot showers and electric power. There is a colorful market each Saturday.

Day 04
Trek to Tengboche (3,867m.), visit Tengboche monastery, great view of Amadablam, Mt. Everest etc.

Day 05
The trail continues up along the Imja Khola and cross the river from Khumbhu glacier and walk up to Dingboch (4,440m.) entered to Imja valley. .

Day 06
Short walk to Chhukung (2/3 hours) (4,730m/15,518ft).

Day 07
Chhukung -Island Peak Base camp: 3-4 hours.

The path from Chhukung is fairly steep climbing south then turning east to follow the main line of the valley. It zigzags along or below the southern flank of the moraine from the Lhotse Glacier. A short trek along the stream then leads to what we call Big-rock. The route to the Amphu Lapcha lies to the southeast. Anothe zigzag trek through the Imja and Lhotse glacier moraines leads to a wide valley flanking the SW side of Island peak. Over night at Island Peak Base Camp (5,200m/17,060ft).

Day 08
Island Peak Base Camp to High Camp: 3-4 hours.

The path leads up beyond base camp for several hundred meters before striking off left up the steep hillside. Initially sandy, the path soon turns to grass before becoming boulder strewn. As you climb the hill, you will see that the slope narrows and the path enters a steep rock channel. Overnight in Island Peak High Camp. (5,600m/18,372ft).

Day 09
High camp to Summit (6119m.) to Base camp to Chhukung: 8-10 hours.

Island Peak Ascent (6119 m/20,305ft), from early in the morning we will have to climb the rock gully. This is not difficult but there are several short rock steps to climb before you emerge on the right side of the gully. The route then follows a ridgeline which leads to an exhilarating and exposed traverse onto the snout of the summit glacier. You will need to rope up for the glacier as it contains several crevasses but it leads without difficulty to a 100m(330ft) snow and ice slope (40-45 degrees) on which the guides will fix a rope. From the top of this slope, 3 rope lengths along a sharp summit ridge lead to the top. After enjoying the summit views you will descend all the way to Chhukung for overnight.

Day 10
Chhukung to Dingboche – Lobuche: 6-7 hours.
Trek down to Dingboche and walking up to Lobuche. Visit Khumbhu glacier; the biggest glacier in the world.

Day 11
Trekking up Gorak Shep (5,188m.) and to Everest Base Camp (5,300m.) and back to Gorak Shep.

Day 12
Early in the morning trip to Kalapattar (Black rock) 5545m. a small peak that offers the best view of Mt. Everest and back to Gorak Shep walking down to Pheriche.

Day 13
Trekking down to Namche Bazaar: 4-5 hours.

Day 14
Namche Bazaar to Lukla: 6-7 hours.

We trek back to Lukla along the same trail. On arrival in Lukla we will have time to relax and celebrate the completion of your trek.

Day 15
Lukla- Kathmandu – early morning flight to Kathmandu:


€ 45 @ 10 days (Teahouse): € 450 /person
+ € 70 @ 4 days (Camping during the climb): € 280 /person
+ € 30 /person (reduced charge on the final day)
+ Lukla KTM flight return € 242 / person

Total: € 1002

Climbing Permit: € 133 / person
Equipment Charge for climbing sherpa: € 177 /person

Grand total: € 1312 /person

It includes:
All food except bar bill (3 meal a day), accommodation in teahouses during the trek and camping during the climbing, All staffs (trekking guide, climbing guide and porters) and their all expenses, Mountain gear except boot and crampoon, Climbing permit, TIMS (Trekking Information Management System) card, Sagarmatha National Park entry permit, Lukla KTM return flight, Airport pick-up-drop etc.

Trip Cost Does Not Include:
Visa fees/ International airfare to & from home city/ international airport departure taxes
Meals and Hotel in Kathmandu
Excess baggage charges
Travel and rescue insurance
Personal expenses e.g. phone calls, laundry, bar bills & extra porters
Optional trips and sightseeing if extend
It is a condition of joining this trip that you must be insured against medical and personal accident risks. This insurance must include emergency air ambulance/helicopter rescue services. read more on travel insurance.

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